Transitioning Ownership at Za’Tar
Cypress Street restaurant Za’Tar has entered a period of transition as new manager Mola Mekonant prepares to assume full ownership. Since taking over daily operations in June 2026, Mekonant has focused on restructuring the kitchen and redecorating the interior of the kosher Mediterranean establishment. The location, situated across from CVS in Brookline, now features a deep sage green color scheme, wooden tables, and personal decor choices from the incoming owner.
Born in Ethiopia and raised in Israel, Mekonant originally moved toward careers in animation and design before shifting his focus to the restaurant trade. He describes food as his primary artistic medium. This transition at Za’Tar serves as a test for his philosophy on hospitality, which he credits to his upbringing. Black and white portraits of his mother and grandmother hang on the dining room walls as a constant reminder of the standards he aims to uphold.
Refinement of the Menu and Kitchen Operations
A central change under the new management involves the simplification of the restaurant menu. Mekonant decided to remove labor-intensive items such as burekas to ensure the kitchen staff maintains consistency across the dishes that remain. He produces approximately 375 pounds of hummus on a weekly basis, a staple ingredient across sandwiches, grain bowls, and kebabs. The preparation process relies on scratch cooking, which he notes is essential to the quality of the final product.
Customer favorites remain staples of the current lineup. The sabich, a signature combination of hummus, eggplant, boiled eggs, warm chickpeas, and tahini, continues to drive sales. Other popular options include traditional falafel, kebabs, and Turkish coffee brewed over an open flame in a metal pot. Mekonant is also preparing to introduce aesthetic and flavor variations, including beet-infused pink tahini and mint-based green tahini, as he settles into his role.
Future Plans and Community Integration
Mekonant intends to rename the establishment Mola once the transfer of ownership concludes. The name originates from the Amharic word for satisfied, reflecting his goal for the dining experience. He intends to expand the decorative scope of the restaurant by adding photographs of his customers to the walls, positioning them alongside the existing portraits of his family members. This project aligns with his stated goal of treating every patron like a relative.
External feedback has been favorable since the updates began. Online reviews emphasize the freshness of the ingredients and the quality of the service provided by the current staff. Mekonant notes that the success is personal, as his own four-year-old son recently became a regular consumer of his hummus after school peers validated the dish. The restaurant continues to operate under the name Za’Tar while the final administrative steps of the ownership transition proceed throughout the fall season.